Vamp-trimming machine



M. E.' SHACKLEY VAMP TRIMMING MACHINE May 15, 1923. 1,454,908

Filed June 26 1919 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Wine 3 s Ememior May 15, 1923. 1,454,908

M. E. SHACKLEY VAMP TRIMMING MACHINE Filed June 26 1919 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented May 15, 1%23.

unit-an stares inseam MOSES n. SHACKLEY, or EAST LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, essrenon T0 UNITED snoE MACHINERY coaroaa'rron, or rarnason, NEW JERSEY, a CORPORATION or NEW JERSEY.

VAMP- TR-IMIVIING MACHINE;

To all whom it may concern:

' Be itknown that I, Mosns E. SHAcKLnY, a citizen of the United States, residing at-East Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Vamp-Trim-' ming Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact de scription of the invention, such as will enable others skllled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to trimming ma chines used in the manufacture of shoes and in certain respects it relates especially to machines for trimming surplus material from the upstanding fiange formed by the margin of the upper of a lasted shoe. According to present-day shoemaking some of this surplus material is trimmed off prior to sewing the inseam and more is trimmed 05 after sewing the inseam, the first of said trimming operations being necessary to enable the looper and other instrumentalities of the inseam-sewing machine to operate without hindrance. 'This trimming operation is usually performed by a machine known, as an upper-trimming machine. The greatest quantity of surplus material is usually at the toe where the upper is drawn in and crimped incidentally to lasting.

In lasting the toes it is customary to use a bed-lasting machine having wipers, and to bind the lasted upper around the toeend by a wire anchored to two tacks, one at each side of the shoe and about two inches from the toe. As a result of this method the marginal portion of the upper. assumes a flaring formation around the toe, instead of a pleated formation as with other methods. Still referring to conditions around the toe, the marginal portion of the upper projects outwardly from the binding wire instead of lying on the insole or projecting perpendicularly therefrom. Nevertheless, at the rear of the two tacks by which the aforesaid binding wire is above described is difiicult to trim preparatory to sewing the inseam, one of the difficulties being due to the aforesaid flaring formation of the marginal portion of the upper around the toe. The operatives of inseam trimming machines are-obliged to work very rapidly and totilt the 'shoeone way and another-so that the trimming cutters may follow the curvatures of the bottom of the last. Furthermore, to insure feeding the surplus materialinto the field of operation, particularly that around the toe end, it has heretofore been necessary to tilt the shoe in such a way as to place the marginal portion of the upper-in a substantially upright position. Consequently, in trimming around the toe end'it has been necessary tov depress the heel of the shoe so far that the trimming cutters, in many cases," have trimmed too closely to the insole. In such cases the shoes have been deprivedof an amount of surplus material sufficient to maintain the lasted portion securely under l the binding wire and to insure suitableanchorage for the'inseam stitches to be sub sequently sewn.

Accordingly, one object of the presentinvention is to provide an improved'uppertrimming machine by which it-will be impossible to trim the surplus material too closely, regardless of the rapidity with which the operation is performed and regardless of how or how much the shoe may be tilted while being trimmed.

A feature of the invention consists in a novel combination comprising arr-improved work-cage or guiding device arranged to overlap continuously and to bear onthat portion of the lasted upperthat lies on the margin or feather of the insole, and also to I bear continuously against that portion of the upper thatlies against the-rib or shoulder of the insole. The illustrated machine, in which a preferred form of-the invention is embodied, includes a mechanicallymoperated feed-roll arranged. so that its periphery will run on the inner side of therib of the insole while its lower end bears on the face of the insole. The upper end of this feed-roll has a shearing edge with which an oscillatory shearing member cooperates to trim off the surplus material. The aforesaid improyed work-gage is arranged to coop-, erate with this feed-roll to form'a channel through which the marginal portion of the upper must pass, the relation of these two devices being such that whenever the shoe is tilted excessively in one direction or the other either the feed-roller the work-gage v ineaeoe will serve as the fulcrum for such tilting and will increase the distance between the insole and the trimming cut. The minimum distance .may be initially determined by the 'depthof the feed roll.

and, like the feed-roll, constitutes a positive gage for preventing the feather of the insole from approaching too closely to the plane of the cut. Another feature of the invention consists in a novel formation of the aforesaid workgage by which the flaringportions of the 'upper are deflected to an upright position as they approach the'field of operation, thus doing away with reciprocatory devices heretofore provided for this purpose.

Other features of the present invention consist in'certain constructions, arrange merits and combinationsof parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

The several features of the present invention will be clearly understood from the following description and accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is an elevation of the upper portion of a vamp trimming machine embodying the features of the invention in their preferred form; Fig. 2 is a detail left end elevation of the improved work guiding de vice or guard; Fig. 3 is an elevation on an enlarged scale of the work engaging instrumentalities of the machine, particularly illustrating the improved work guiding device or guard; Fig. 4ris a plan view partly in section of the same; Fig. 5 is a sectional view, partly in elevation, taken on the line 55 of Fig. 4; and Fig. 6 is a vertical sec-- tion of the toe end of a lasted shoe of the welt type in which the pulled-over portion is held in lasted position by a binding wire,

and includes dotted lines representing the work-engaging elements of the trimming machine to show the operative relation of the I work thereto.

1 vertical guide roll 4. The lower end of the guide roll is'flattened for engagement with the sole 5 of a shoe placed in the machine and the periphery at the upper end 6 of the guide 'roll' constitutes a circular shearing edge. The machine is further provided with a trimming knife 8 which is vibrated in a segmental path across the shearing edge 6. The work guiding device and trimming knives, and their actuatingmechanisms, may be and preferably are the same as disclosed in the patent to Hadaway, No; 922,697 dated May 25, 1909.

The present embodiment of the invention is provided with a work guiding device or guard 10'which cooperates with the guide roll lto properly present the projecting edges of the vamp and lining of a lasted shoe placed in the machine tothe action of the trimming knives. This guiding device 10 comprises a shank 12 which is positioned substantially in the plane ofthe shearing edge 6 and substantially in line with the'roll l transversely of the direction of. :t'eed. Theshank 12 is mounted to slide in ax horizontal dovetailed way 14- formed in a bracket 16 secured by bolts 18 to the frame of the machine. A boss 20 on the shank 12 is bored and tapped to form an adjustable connection with a'bolt 22 which is screwedthereon and held by a lock nut 24. The belt 22 extends through an aperture'in aboss 26 on the upper side of the bracket 16 and is guided by the outer end of-the wall of the aperture. The device 10 is urgcd'toward the guide roll 4 by means of aspring 28 coiled about the bolt 22 and interposed between a collar 30 secured to the bolt and a shoulder formed by the outer end of the wall of the aperture in the boss 26. The movement of the device it "eward theguido roll 4 under the influence of the spring 28 is limited by an adjustable stop on the outer end of the bolt, which stop comprises nuts ment of the device 10 relatively to the trimparts. These slots enable the device 10 to be adjusted so that it will bear o'n the work as shown in Figure 6.

The shoe to be operated upon is placed in the machine in such manner that the lower end of the guide roll engages the sole of the shoe, and the projecting marginal: portion of the upper 85 is positioned between the pe riphei-y of the guiderolland the guiding device 10, the spring 28 permitting the latter to accommodate itself to the thickness ofv the work. The tension of thespring28 is adjusted tosustain the rib '37 of the insole against the peripheryofthe guide-roll witli I only sufficient force to cause. the'wo'rlnto be fed by the roll.

In order to turn up fiaringportions of the '1 iarginal portion 35 so as topresent them to the trimmingknives durin gthe feeding of the work, the device -10-is curvedice wardly the device 10 becomes a fulcrum for such tilting, and the depth. of the upstanding flange from its base to the line of trimming is increased. On the other hand, ifthe shoe is tilted too far upwardly it rocks on the roll 4:, and again increases thedistance between the base of the flange and the line of trimming. Consequently the result of any error in tilting'the shoe will be to trim less closely to the sole, regardless of which way the shoe is tilted. Since a sufiicient remainder of material is assured a greater amount of surplus material may be trimmed off than could be done safely by former machines.

Referring to Figure 6, the marginal portion 35 of the upper stands in its normal position, that is, the position it occupies before it is bent to a more upright position by the member 10. One purpose of this figure is to illustrate the normal condition of the margin 35 which has heretofore induced the operatives to tilt the shoe to rectify its position with the disadvantage of trimming too closely. Another purpose of this figure is to illustrate the correct adjustment of the member 10 for trimming a shoe of this type. In this figure the member 10 is adjusted to a lower plane in comparison with Figs. 1, 3 and 5, such adjustment being afforded by the slots 34- in the bracket 16 and also by the screw-connection at theforward end of the bolt 22. Under working conditions, when the shoe is in operative position the marginal portion 35 would be bent to an upright position by the member 10 so as to pass between the shearing elements 6 and 8.

The member 8, in this figure, is not fully retracted, which accounts for the comparatively small space between its cutting edge and that of the feed-roll.

The nature and scope of the present invention having been indicated, and a machine embodying the several features of the invention in their preferred form having been specifically described, what is claimed 1. An upper trimming machine comprising a guide roll arranged so that one end will engage the face of the insole of a lasted shoe while its periphery engages the inner surface of the material being trimmed, the other end of said roll having a shearing edge, a mechanically operated cutter arranged to cooperate with said shearing edge, and a trimming gage arranged to overlap continuously the overdrawn portion of the upper that lies on the margin of the insole to keep said overdrawn portion at a predetermined distance from the line of trimming when the shoe is tilted so as to lay the marginal portion of theupper against said roll.

2, A vamp trimming machine having, in combination, a guide roll for the vamp and lining having a shearing face at one end and its other end directed towardthe surfaceof the sole ofa shoe placed in the machine, a

work guiding member immovable in a plane perpendicular to said shearing face arranged to engage the work substantially in line with the roll transversely of the direction of feed to cooperate with the guide roll in guiding the work, and a trimming knife working across said shearing face.

3. A vamp trimming machine having, in combination, aguide roll for-the vamp and lining having a shearing face at one end and its other end directed toward the surface of the sole of a shoe placed in the machine, a work guiding member movable in a plane parallel to said shearing face to cooperate with the guide roll in guidingthe work comprising a platemounted to slide in a plane parallel to said shearing face, a spring for urging the plate toward the guide roll, and a wiper comprising an upwardly projecting member carried by the plate to turn up the projecting edges of the vamp and lining in advance of the point of engagement of the guide 'roll, and a trimming knife working across said shearing face.

4. A vamp trimming machine having, in combination, a guide roll for the vamp and lining having a shearing face at oneend and its other end directed toward the surface of'the sole of a shoe placed in the machine, a work guiding device to cooperate with the guide rollin guiding the work comprising a plate mounted to slide in aplane parallel to said shearing face, a spring forurging the plate toward the guide roll, and a trimmingv knife working across said, shearing face.

5. A vamp trimming-machinehaving, in combination a work guiding and shearing device having a shearing face on one side and its opposite side directed toward the face of the sole of a shoe placed in the ma- I chine, a work guiding member movable to-: ward and from said device engaging the outside of the vamp to cooperate with said device in guiding the work, a member carried by said work guiding member to turn up a projecting edge of the vamp in advance of said device, and a trimming knife working across said shearing face.

' 6. A trimming machine comprising means for trimming surplus material from the margin of the upper of a lasted shoe, and two cooperative work-guiding members one of which is arranged to engage the insole and the inner surface of said'margin and the other of which is arranged toengage continuously the outer surface of said margin andthe pulled-over upper material lying on'the insole, one'of said members being arranged-to yield away from the other 'but being fixed excepting in respect to such yielding.

7. A trimming machine comprising means for trimming surplus material from the margin of the upper of a lasted shoe, and two' 'cooperative worlnguiding members arranged to engage said margin continuously, one'against the inner surface and the other against the outer surface of said margin to present the latter-in upright position to said trimming means, saidmembers being fixed excepting that one of them is arranged to yield away from the other undone-=01 them is arranged to'rot'ate so asto have rolling contact with said margin.

8. A trimming machine comprising means for trimming surplus materialfrom the upstanding'margin ofthe upper of a lasted .shoe, and twocooperatiye work-guiding members arranged to engagethe work continuously so as to bear respe'ctively against the* insideandoutside of said'margin, said members being fixed excepting that-one of them isarranged toyield away 'from the other'a'nd the inside'one is arranged to rotate so asto have rolling contact with said margin.

9. A trimming machine comprising means for trimming surplus material from the upstanding margin of the upper of a lasted shoe, and two cooperative work-guiding members arranged to engage the work continuously, one inside and the other outside said margin, said members being Lfixed ex cepting that the outside'one is arranged to yield away from theinside one' and the'l'atter is rotatable so as to have' rolling contact with said margin while otherwise engaging the insole;

10L A trimming machine comprising shearing means for trimming surplus material from the upstanding margin of the upper of artens a lasted shoe, and two cooperative workguiding members arranged to engage the work-continuously, one inside and the other outside said margin, said members being arranged to remain in constant relation to each other excepting that one of them is arranged to yield away from the other.

11. A trimming machine I comprising means for trimming surplus material from the margin of the upper of a lasted shoe, a

roll arranged to turn about a fixed axis so that its periphery will have rolling contact shoe,- a work 'guiding member arranged to bear continuously against the outer side-of said margin so-asto cooperate with: said roll to bend the margin to upstandlng positionrelatively to the sole, said work guiding member being fixed excepting that it .is arranged to yield away from said: roll in linessubstantially at right anglesto the axis of said roll, and trimmingmeans including a knife arranged to cooperate with the edge "at the other end of said roll to trim surplus material from said margin:

13. A trimming machine comprising two cooperative work-guiding members one-of which is arranged to engage the inner sideot the margin ofthe upper of a lasted shoe and the other of which is'arranged to overlap continuously the' mlled-over portion of the upperon the feat er of the soleand to engage the outer sideeoi' said margin, and

means arranged to trim surplus material from the upper material between said [members.

MQSES E. SHACKLEY. 

